Šip

Mainly extreme harsh limestone, sharp flakes, pockets, sinters and also some steep cracks. The wall is well structured and such has moderate difficulties. Some belays are just above the water line what can be exciting when the sea is rough. Great scenery!

Access

Half right behind the church starts a good footpath which leads downwards alongside old stonewalls. After a while the footpath becomes steeper and curves down towards the tongue of land called “Sip”. After the 7th hairpin bend you’ve a good view of “Sip” and the opposing small harbour of “Pec”. In the following hairpin bend a small “track” points straight ahead, first horizontal and then a few meters upwards to the edge of the cliff (abseil point “Salty Dog”, 60m, 3x20m). Two hairpin bends further you will reach the exit of “Renata” (slings, do not abseil!). Approximately 10m to the right (“Ship by Sip” is in between) is a small corner with the abseil point of “Old Friendship” which can be reached by climbing down (50m, 2x25m. The intermediate belay becomes visible very late!)

There are two more abseil points left of “Renata” which can be seen in the topo (both 2x25m). Caution! All other routes have NO intermediate belay! Ideally you should use a 50m or 60m fixed rope (“Salty Dog”) when climbing those routes. When you are pulling down the rope don’t forget the obligate runner otherwise your rope will take a bath.

Routes: (from left to right)

  1. Last Sugar, 6c, 55m, The crux is an exciting slab
  2. White Pepper, 6c+, 60m, Phantastic pitch along a white ridge
  3. Salty Dog, 6a, 60m, Just in the middle a wee bit more difficult
  4. Medusa, 6a, 55m, Very homogeneous long pitch
  5. Old Frienship, 6b, 50m, Nasty double crack at the end
  6. Ship by Šip, 6b+, 50m, Compact wall with small holds in the upper part
  7. Renata, 6a+, 50m, Sharp pockets in the upper section
  8. Malvasia, 5b/5c, 45m, The perfect route … after to much Malvasia
  9. Polyphem, 6b/6a+, 35m, Two very nice crux
  10. Outis (Nobody), 5c+, 15m, Easier alternative
  11. Aiolos, 6b+, 35m, Gently overhanging top crack